Introduction
If your dryer tumbles weakly, makes a high-pitched squeal, or the motor runs but the drum won’t spin, a worn or broken belt is a prime suspect. The fix is easier than it looks. Learning how to replace a dryer belt step by step can save you a service call, extend your dryer’s life, and get laundry day back on track—often in under an hour.
Why Replacing a Dryer Belt Matters for Your Laundry Room
A healthy belt keeps the drum rotating smoothly so clothes dry evenly and quickly. Replacing it when you notice slipping or squealing will:
- Restore proper tumbling, so airflow reaches every part of the load.
- Prevent collateral damage to the idler pulley, motor, and drum glides.
- Reduce energy use, since a freely spinning drum dries faster.
- Cut downtime—no waiting on a technician for a straightforward repair.
When your belt, lint trap, and vent are all in good shape, your dryer works efficiently alongside your washer, folding station, and shelves to keep laundry moving.
Safety First
- Unplug the dryer from the outlet. If it’s gas, shut off the gas valve and disconnect the line (cap it and keep upright to avoid stress).
- Pull the dryer away from the wall to access the back and sides.
- Wear cut-resistant gloves—appliance edges can be sharp.
- If your dryer is stacked, enlist help to unstack safely.
Tools & Materials
- Replacement dryer belt (match your model number)
- Nut driver set or socket set (¼”, 5/16″, 3/8″ are common)
- Phillips/flathead screwdrivers
- Putty knife (to release spring clips on many tops)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Vacuum with crevice tool (great time to clean lint)
- Painter’s tape or small containers for screws
- Phone for reference photos
Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing a Dryer Belt
Dryers vary slightly (front-service vs. rear-service). The most common layout removes the front panel and lifts the top. Always take photos as you go so reassembly is foolproof.
1) Kill Power, Remove Lint Screen & Screws
Unplug the dryer. Pull out the lint screen. On many models, there are two screws inside the lint screen housing; remove them. This frees the top panel.
2) Pop the Top
Slide a putty knife 3–4 inches from each front corner to release the spring clips holding the top. Lift the top panel like a car hood and secure it against a wall or with a prop.
3) Remove the Front Panel
- Locate the front panel screws near the inside edges; remove them.
- Unplug the door switch harness (note connector orientation).
- Lift the panel up and off the bottom tabs. Set it aside.
You’ll now see the drum, belt (broken or slack), idler pulley, and motor.
4) Release Belt Tension
Reach under the drum (from the front). The belt routes around the drum, then down around the idler pulley and over the motor pulley. Push the idler arm to release tension and slip the belt off the motor pulley. Let the idler swing back gently.
5) Remove the Drum (If Needed)
On many models, you can leave the drum in place and slide the old belt out; others require removing it. If removing:
- Grasp the drum with both hands and lift slightly to clear the rear rollers/bearing.
- Pull it forward and out.
This gives full access to vacuum lint, inspect rollers, and find the belt path.
6) Clean & Inspect
- Vacuum the cabinet thoroughly (lint is a fire hazard).
- Spin the drum rollers—they should roll freely without flat spots.
- Check the idler pulley for wobble or squeal. Replace worn parts now to avoid reopening the dryer later.
- Inspect the felt seals at the drum edges; re-seat if displaced.
7) Fit the New Belt on the Drum
Slide the new belt around the drum’s center with the grooved/ribbed side against the drum. Align it close to the original wear line if visible—this helps tracking.
8) Reinstall the Drum (If Removed)
Lift the drum back onto the rear rollers/bearing. Ensure it sits evenly and rotates without scraping. Keep the belt draped over the drum so its free ends hang at 6 o’clock.
9) Route the Belt (Idler + Motor)
From the front reach under the drum to route the belt:
- Bring the belt down around the idler pulley, then over the motor pulley.
- Typical path: drum → down through the idler side (creating an S-shape) → around motor.
- Apply light pressure to the idler arm to set proper tension while slipping the belt into place.
Tip: If your cabinet has a belt-routing sticker, follow it. Otherwise, snap a quick photo here for reference.
10) Hand-Spin to Seat the Belt
Rotate the drum clockwise by hand several turns. The belt should track straight, not walk forward or backward. If it migrates, recheck routing and make sure the grooved side is against the drum.
11) Reassemble the Cabinet
- Reinstall the front panel: set it on bottom tabs, reconnect the door switch, and tighten screws.
- Lower the top panel and press down over the spring clips.
- Reinsert the lint screen and its screws (if applicable).
12) Test the Dryer (No Load)
Plug in the dryer (and reconnect gas if applicable; check for leaks with soapy water—bubbles indicate a leak). Run the dryer empty for 2–3 minutes:
- Listen for rubbing, squealing, or thumping.
- Verify the drum tumbles smoothly and the belt stays centered.
- If all good, push the dryer back and level the feet.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Wrong Belt
Belts are model-specific. Using a “close enough” size causes slip or tracking issues. Always match by model number. - Ribbed Side Facing Out
The belt’s grooves go against the drum. Smooth side faces out. - Misrouted Belt
The idler must tension the belt against the motor pulley. A misroute leaves the belt slack and the drum won’t turn. - Forgetting the Door Switch Plug
The dryer won’t run if the door switch isn’t connected. Double-check plugs before closing the cabinet. - Skipping Lint Cleanup
Lint around the motor and heater is a fire risk. Take the extra 5 minutes to vacuum thoroughly. - Over-tightening Screws
Stripping cabinet screws or deforming panels can cause vibrations and rattles. Snug is enough.
Extra Laundry Tips & Hacks
- Replace wear parts together: If the belt failed, the idler pulley or drum rollers may be near the end of life too—consider a kit.
- No lubricants: Don’t oil idler or rollers unless the manufacturer specifies. Many are sealed; oil attracts lint.
- Clean the vent now: While the dryer is pulled out, vacuum the exhaust duct and check the exterior hood. Better airflow = faster dry times.
- Label screws by section: A strip of painter’s tape on the floor with “top,” “front,” and “lint housing” keeps hardware organized.
- Photograph each step: Your own mini-manual for reassembly (and next time).
Conclusion
Replacing a dryer belt is a confidence-boosting DIY that restores proper tumbling, shortens dry times, and prevents bigger breakdowns. With basic tools, careful routing around the idler and motor, and a quick no-load test, you’ll have your dryer spinning like new.
📌 Extra Tip: Add “vacuum inside the dryer cabinet + check belt tension” to your annual laundry maintenance list—right alongside cleaning the lint trap and dryer vent. This small habit pays big dividends in safety and efficiency. Bookmark this guide for the next time your drum stops spinning.